Priory Rods, Bournemouth, England

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StalkingLuke
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Re: Priory Rods, Bournemouth, England

Post by StalkingLuke » Thu Jun 14, 2012 5:08 pm

A quick update, I've had to take a bit of time off this week as the whole family have been ill and needed looking after. In the gaps between administering medicines and cleaning up various bodily fluids I've managed to strip the rod right down. The Handle has had a quick light sand over and now looks like new, the scary split in the butt section is now glued and feels incredibly strong, I chose to use Gorilla Glue in the end as it's foaming action seems to push it's way into everything and creates a very strong bond. Now cleaned up it looks very good and I've put some serious pressure on that section and there is no sign of any movement.

I've carefully scraped off the old varnish and the blank is in remarkable condition underneath and has cleaned up nicely. I would like a matt finish so can I simply use an exterior polyurethane varnish?

The tip and butt ring are still like new but I will order some new intermediates, regarding sizes on the Chapman website do I quote the internal or external ring size?

Is the nylon whipping thread on the Chapman site suitable or should I search out some of the proper silk thread, is there a great difference in performance or appearance?

Thanks for any tips.
Luke
Never test the depth of the water with both feet.

Haydn Clarke

Re: Priory Rods, Bournemouth, England

Post by Haydn Clarke » Thu Jun 14, 2012 7:24 pm

Luke, yes Polyurethane is fine. Rings are graded by numbers ie. 2,1, 0, 00 etc. I'm sure if you measure the ring diametre that John will tell you what you need. Sue at piper's silk is very helpful and they provide a good service, no minimum order quantity etc.

You've got a cracking rod there so take your time and I'm sure you'll end up with something quite special.

Good luck.

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StalkingLuke
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Re: Priory Rods, Bournemouth, England

Post by StalkingLuke » Fri Jun 15, 2012 7:02 am

Thanks Haydn, its been fun so far although I guess the tricky bits are still ahead.
I have built a few carp rods in the past from scratch but never using cane it feels like a living thing in comparison to carbon or glass. I've come across a few pencil marks from the original builder and it really makes me wonder about who they were and if they might still be around.

I think another cane addict has just been born!
Never test the depth of the water with both feet.

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Nobby
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Re: Priory Rods, Bournemouth, England

Post by Nobby » Fri Jun 15, 2012 8:04 am

On the subjet of polyurethane, Haydn put me on to this:


http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Mylands-No-8- ... 0361170903


It's lovely...very clear, very fast drying and hard as nails....it should be...it's a floor varnish!

I didn't think Chapmans had silk on their site, but they are starting a new site in a week or so as they can't edit the old one anymore and the internal links have all failed.

It rather depends on your colour choice and needs, but real silk is quite hard to use as it is so thin. This means it's harder to butt the wraps up to one another and not 'hop-over' a previous wrap. Trying to prevent this can lead to gaps...it really is quite tricky.

Even using a Fish-Hawk Grade A, which is the same as other's Grade 30, I still get gaps from time to time and need to but the wraps up tightly with my thumbnail or the back edge of a knife blade.

Haydn Clarke

Re: Priory Rods, Bournemouth, England

Post by Haydn Clarke » Fri Jun 15, 2012 8:43 am

Nobby wrote:On the subjet of polyurethane, Haydn put me on to this:


http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Mylands-No-8- ... 0361170903


It's lovely...very clear, very fast drying and hard as nails....it should be...it's a floor varnish!

.

Only stuff I ever use is that Myland's No.8. I've tried others but couldn't get on with them. I'm still not entirely sure about how well it performs long term as all my rods have been restored within the last four years. I know it's waterproof enough as Nobby's used it on floats and left them submerged for days on end without any degradation of the finish. My only slight concern is that it might be slightly less flexible than, say, a yacht varnish, but even that is not entirely a drawback as to be flexible, like a yacht varnish, means to be softer and therefore much more prone to scratching. The best thing about No. 8 varnish is that it skins over very quick, within an hour if the room is warm enough. And if you don't have a bespoke cabinet for drying(thus removing dust from the drying atmosphere) then this can make the difference between a good finish and a poor one.

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StalkingLuke
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Re: Priory Rods, Bournemouth, England

Post by StalkingLuke » Fri Jun 15, 2012 5:55 pm

Thanks for the advice chaps much appreciated. I will get my order in over the weekend and then make a start. I will post some pics at some point.

I hadn't thought about dust so will have to find somewhere suitable.
Never test the depth of the water with both feet.

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Nobby
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Re: Priory Rods, Bournemouth, England

Post by Nobby » Fri Jun 15, 2012 6:14 pm

It obviously helps to vacuum the room in question, but I then like to go over all surfaces with a damp cloth to keep the remnants down as well. I even move slowly when I'm picking up and putting down rod sections and don't forget to wipe the work clean before you varnish as well as washing the brush again before you start.

One day I'll knock up a proper drying cabinet, surely just an old cupboard would do?

Haydn Clarke

Re: Priory Rods, Bournemouth, England

Post by Haydn Clarke » Fri Jun 15, 2012 7:11 pm

Yes I creep around like a ninja when I'm varnishing, too, Nobby.

Luke, if you never thought about dust then you'll soon become obsessed with it when you start varnishing. With some of the longer drying varnishes it can be a huge problem. And as I said in my earlier post, after all the time consuming work of stripping, repairs and whipping, it makes the difference from a very good finish to one that looks at best average, and at worst will make all the previous hard work seem like a waste of time.

I'd suggest you get some good quality brushes too as this will help no end. Pure squirell and pure sable are about as good as you'll get. Work slow and try to avoid backbrushing and keep the brush in contact with the rod as much as possible. In other words, the more you lift off the more bubbles and brush marks you're likely to leave. The best thing by far though, and this is only relevant if you anticipate doing a few more rods, is to get a rod dryer/turner. I've never done a rod without using one but I'm pretty sure that a good finish is all but impossible without one.

I find it helps to thin the varnish a bit as it flows better. But be warned, some varnishes, Mylands No.8 very much included, deteriorate quick when thinned so only thin down what you are going to use immediatel and discard the rest.

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StalkingLuke
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Re: Priory Rods, Bournemouth, England

Post by StalkingLuke » Sat Jun 16, 2012 11:43 am

Funnily enough we are just about to vacuum the house but just because it needs it.

Haydn I found a link to the old PP forum and you describe your rod turning device, I think I'm going to build one myself.

Should I apply the first coat to the cane before whipping on the rings or leave it until after whipping?
Never test the depth of the water with both feet.

Haydn Clarke

Re: Priory Rods, Bournemouth, England

Post by Haydn Clarke » Sat Jun 16, 2012 4:38 pm

I give the blank one coat before whipping so that I know the rod is completely sealed. Others seem to find it harder to whip onto a varnished rod but I don't find it any harder. In all honesty, Luke, I don't think it makes much difference.

Disco mirror balls for your motors. Ebay about a tenner each. Buy three to speed things up and you'll need to knock up some sort of chuck arrangement.

Rod dryer.

Manufacturer: Messrs. Heath&Robinson Circa 2010

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