Freeing up a Hardy Conquest

[Duckett]

I was lucky enough to swap some of my last modern coarse reels for a Hardy Conquest - the version without the Young's wheel drag.

It came in the original box and looks to me as if it was on display back in the 1960s, spun by passing customers drooling over it, but never actually sold or, if it was, it never saw the water! Aside from some light marks around the handles and some dust, it looks perfect.

There was no sign of oil or grease and the internals where spotless. I've given her a good clean and, using a trick Gary Mills showed me, sat in front of a handful of old episodes of "Poirot" and "Miss Marple" oiling and spinning, cleaning the pin and bush with a lint free cloth, oiling and spinning (repeat endlessly, it's surprisingly therapeutic!)

Now, I'm not a spin time freak but the best I can get her up to is about 10 seconds (she started at about 5)! There is no scraping, other noise or stiffness, the pin appears straight and there's no wobble but she still wont spin for long. She's the type that I've seen described by Nobby on a Conquest dating thread as having a small copper bung instead of a grub screw to balance the pin on.

Any suggestions would be very much appreciated. I can post some pictures later if it might help.

[MGs]

I have the same model. Without too much regular maintenance it spins for about 30 seconds or more. Just the occasional bit of sewing machine oil. I don't see much point in having it spin more as it will more than likely over run causing tangles.
Nobby gave me a tip about getting mine running properly. I think it had the same issue as yours. I'm sure he will be along to give better details. It involved putting a suitable socket, from a socket set, over the domed centre and giving it a light tap. This, as far as I can work out, very slightly increases the distance between the top of the pin and the copper disk, which may be causing slight drag.
I'd hold fire for the definitive answer before hitting it with a hammer!

Edit

Just a quick thought, have you got the lever on the rear ivorine dial set to light? Otherwise it will only spin for a short time.

[ReelMaker]

I've found that bronze bearings do need time to be run in ,as it might be the latch needs a touch adjustment so there is a little end play on the pin .Hope this may help.Reelmaker

[Wallys-Cast]

The Dial type regulator version is less free running than the wheel type, mainly because the drag is always slightly on, even when fully released. It is a sign the reel hasn't had much use over the years so it's a good sign.
The Tufnol pad which rubs against the spool needs to be relieved slightly to make it more free running. This will happen on its own after some use so if you are not really bothered about it, I would leave it to bed in on its own.

Wal.

[Duckett]

Many thanks for this everyone. Looks like more oil and another episode of Poirot this evening!

[ReelMaker]

Hardys had a point of making their reels so they needed running in ,like cars did years ago,so persevere and don't do any tapping give it time and patience

[Duckett]

Hardys had a point of making their reels so they needed running in ,like cars did years ago,so persevere and don't do any tapping give it time and patience

Thanks for that RM.

[Duckett]

The Dial type regulator version is less free running than the wheel type, mainly because the drag is always slightly on, even when fully released. It is a sign the reel hasn't had much use over the years so it's a good sign.
The Tufnol pad which rubs against the spool needs to be relieved slightly to make it more free running. This will happen on its own after some use so if you are not really bothered about it, I would leave it to bed in on its own.

Wal.

Thanks Wal. I had a close look this evening and the pad does indeed just touch the bush. I’m going to persevere with running in as it was well worth the time with the reel Gary made for me.

[ReelMaker]

Good news from Wal as usual ,a man with many skills and knowledge.

[Nobby]

If this is the earlier 'wheel in the hole' version it's worth checking that the actual metal part that is on the end of the threaded shaft is actually moving away from contact with the centrepin shaft when the drag is set to 'none'.

You see it only retracts by centrifugal motion and can be left behind and continue to act as a drag. It can actually stick in the 'on' position over time.

To check, remove the spool from the reel, then remove the centre boss from the spool. Look from above to see if you can spot the drag component..maybe use something to push it outwards carefully. A drop of oil and work it in and out again a few times if needed.

Once you are happy that it is retracting as it should, assemble the reel and give it another spin.


If it still doesn't spin well check the end float. That is to say; hold the reel in one hand tightly, spool upwards, and lift the spool away from the reel with the other hand.

You should be able to detect a distinct little upwards movement of just a few thousandths of an inch...if there is none the spool release lever is rubbing in its little slot in the centrepin shaft.

It will need cleaning up to remove the rubbing damage before the copper plug is tapped to give some clearance.

Do this by assembling the reel together, but without the release lever in place. Place a tubular object on the centreboss that does not touch the copper plug...so it'll need a hole inside of about a quarter of an inch...a small socket spanner is ideal.

A light tap with a small tacking hammer or similar should restore a little end-float.

Before you do this however, make sure the top of the centrepin shaft and the underside of the copper plug are immaculately clean.

Afterwards you could polish them with a tiny drop of a dry metal polish between them, so that they float over one another without disturbing the film of oil you put on last of all after cleaning the polish remains away thoroughly.

I hope this helps...