Making an Aerial-Match

[Hovis]

An update on further progress:-

I have been trying to get the bronze centre hub made for quite a while now. Although it might not appear so, this is without doubt, the most difficult component of the whole reel to make, because it has to be both precise in dimensions, perfect finish in both bores and entirely concentric on all diameters. Apart from that, each groove has a 5/32" wide slot at the base, 180 degrees apart from each other through which the fork tongues enter the bore and lock into the groove in the spindle. Everything has to be relative to the six 1/16" tapped holes for the spokes and the three tapped holes on the face of the shoulder. ( On the original, the hub, line drum and check wheel are held captive together by two rivets and not wanting to spend more time & outlay building a set up for the precise riveting of this assembly, I thought that we could achieve the same result by screwing all three parts together instead, using tiny M1.4 stainless screws).

On account of the complexity of this component, I made enough hubs for all of them-plus one spare-as a small batch whilst all the various tools were set up. However, because of various problems encountered with the lathe and trying to maintain the necessary accuracy, it took much longer than anticipated, an average of three days to make each one in fact and through this plus other work, I have not been able to post for some time now.

However, I am now pleased to report that the last two hubs were finished and checked this morning so here are a couple of pictures.
I only took two during manufacture; the first is boring out the spindle diameter and the second of putting in the tapped holes for the spokes.
Click on the images for a better picture..







The remainder of the original stock material is in the background here:-







The next task will be to make some sixty-odd, nickel silver spokes..

Regards from wm+

Wm+ can I ask if you turned the hub as a single piece on this? I think on your other reels the "body" was turned as independent part to the "cap" and they were soldered (presumably silver) together. I guess that making them as a single part means the accuracy can be guaranteed.

[Watermole+]

Very nice, I wonder how much will it weigh when completed and what the handles will be made from buffalo horn something nice, can't wait to see the finished reel.

Thank you all for your kind comments..In answer to your questions first:-

I am not too sure now, what the all-up weight of a finished reel will be. The bare line drum is indeed lighter than the original, even with the added line drum floor, but the added weight of the slightly internally thicker bronze hub and steel check wheel, plus all the fittings yet to go on, may well increase it to the same as the 1939 model! At the moment, I have calculated that it might be a little bit lighter but time will tell..

As regards the handle winders, initial thoughts were to make them all from polished black Delrin, which will be as close to the original in appearance as it is possible to get, but each individual future owner will have their own personal choice on this-and I can now offer real horn as an alternative, as well as some wonderfully patterned acrylics.

Hovis..You ask about the bronze hubs..and are absolutely right on all counts.
I did indeed make my first three Aerial-pattern reels with two-part hubs, soldered together, but this was because at the time, I was both ignorant and inexperienced in making them to the necessary accuracy and complete concentricity. -By the way, the two component part of those hubs were pressed together on a location diameter before being soldered and the joints have not failed to date, nor look like doing so.
However, there is nothing stronger than a one-piece component and after a few scrapped attempts, have finally succeeded in producing them from a single piece of metal by doing all the concentric machining operations first, before parting off. After that, I merely had to radius off the front of the nose by hand to complete.
The slots at the bottom of each groove were done as a separate op. by attaching each hub to a plate-for correct orientation-and cutting through with a 1 mm diameter cutter (very carefully!).

To bring this thread up to date; I thought you might like to see why it takes so long to make the check wheels..

The wheels are first made as 'blanks', that is to say, they are finish-turned complete, but without the 'teeth'. Each one is then individually screwed to a mounting plate and positioned under my little half ton pressure, toggle press. (This was one which was scrapped by the factory because it was broken and had the operating arm missing). The two-way table is one I cobbled together and fixed underneath.
I repaired the press, made a new arm for it, gave it a coat of paint and it came up like new!)
The hobbing tool is ground by hand from a piece of High-speed tool steel and each 'gear tooth' is formed by continuously bringing down the cutting arm against a 'stop' and feeding in the blank, one thousandth of an inch at a time. Any bigger cut would jam the cutter and chip the edge..
When one 'tooth' has been formed, the mounting plate is moved to the next position by relocating the mounting plate holes on the fixed dowel pins and clamped down-and so it goes, until all twenty four teeth have been cut.
After that, the ragged, sharp edges of the metal teeth have to be de-burred by hand with a file, then vigorously wire-brushed before being rubbed down flat on a surface plate.
The final op. is to harden and temper each wheel before fitting.

Here are a couple of pictures of my toggle press set-up:-
Firstly, a close-up of a wheel being cut. Each one is firstly roughed out, then the teeth shape hobbed in with a finishing tool..




The press operating arm is raised, but in this picture, you can see it in the 'down' position. The cut is applied through the handle below the red knob..





Admittedly, it has been rather tedious, but whilst all was set up, I cut out all the check wheels for reel-making requests in hand!
The larger ones are for the 1939 Aerial-Match reels and the smaller, 3/4" ones are of special stainless for other reels..
These are all ready now for hardening and tempering.




Please ask any questions you wish concerning any aspect of manufacture..

Regards,

wm+

[Lea Dweller]

I read the words and see the pictures, but I still struggle to come to terms with what it means! As someone that has not the slightest gift for making or repairing anything, I marvel at what my friend Watermole + has achieved. I am sure that I am not alone in feeling that we are seeing a rare talent in action!

[Lovatt]

Very interesting, thank you for your answers watermole. glad to hear there will not be a weight problem with the finished reels and they are looking splendid! looking at the pictures I would guess they will be exceedingly better than the originals. Looking forward to the next post.

[Wallys-Cast]

Absolutely Cogtastic.

Wal.

[Crucian]

As Usual...simply brilliant!

[Hovis]

Wm+ thanks for taking the time to reply. For those of us with an ambition to make a reel from scratch your post are a vital tutorial in how you can adapt and overcome. I too would like to try making my own check wheels but have no press, I could buy one but it would get limited use, plus I'd still have to make the table and indexing attachment. My plan was to use a 60 degree tool on the lathe but to fix this 90 degrees to normal operation so with the work held in the chuck you could effectively broach the teeth in. I'm going to give it a go but in worried about the lead screw and causing damage. Do you think this could be done?

[Surrey Martin]

Sir
Since that early request for a original reel I have been following this and ll I can say is Stunning simply stunning . Very glad also to see that you have recovered from your health issue .
Best Regards
Martin

[Pb845]

Hi Hovis (with apologies for sorry for butting in Wm), yes you can broach in the lathe as you suggest.

Probably not the forum for too much detail, but a workable way is to index and lock the spindle, and use the apron hand wheel on the saddle to traverse the tool using the rack, so no wear on the leadscrew. Not really accurate enough for gears that run together to be quiet, but no probs for this.

You cannot take big cuts, but you can do it perfectly adequately for one offs. Steady away!

Cheers Will

[Hovis]

Hi Hovis (with apologies for sorry for butting in Wm), yes you can broach in the lathe as you suggest.

Thanks Will. Like you say not the forum or thread to elaborate further.

Wm+ bravo Sir, I eagerly await the next instalment.