After a few posts, it became clear that this would be an impossible task because quite naturally, we all have different views and ideas on just about everything about centre pin reels. However; there are some common points which most of us would like to see and so this is a quest to see if it can be done; in short, to make THE TFF AERIAL!
I have already made some of the working drawings (sketches!) but would stress that, they are by no means hard and fast, except for certain dimensions on components like the hub, for example. It would be nice if as many of you as possible could be involved in this project; if there is anything or any feature that you would particularly like to see incorporated, please post your suggestions and we'll see if it is feasible or can be done. I hope that The Forum 'Powers that be' will give nodding approval!!
There is not going to be any rush to complete this so you will all have time to think about it. I'm going to try and do something every week towards it but there may be gaps, as work tends to get in the way still!!
There are still some certain manufacturing processes, about which I am a bit uncertain, but we'll sort them out when we get to them! I have decided to call this The TFF Aerial because it will be a joint venture from you all on this wonderful Forum..
So far, this is the general specification:-
1. Free-running true centre pin, 4" diameter, medium width, metal, full-ventilated drum, supported by 12 spokes, incorporating twin handles, a quick-release and spindle brake.
2. Backplate will be of a reinforced triple laminate, polished wood design and include a reversible, rim-operated, variable, optional check.
With regards to 1., the design has not been finalized in respect of whether it should be from one piece, or the two plates bridged with pillars. There are good arguments for both. If the drum is made from one piece, it will be far easier to make, have no problem with balance or alignment and the line lay will not kink the line. The choice would seem simple if it weren't for the fact that a traditional reel looks so much better aesthetically and far more attractive with pillars..particularly when attached with tiny screws! The problem is that, all such reels are prone to kinking modern, monofilament line, something which never arose when they were first made because mono wasn't around and undressed silk line is very soft and pliable.
However, I think that there might be a way to overcome this...
Personally, I strongly favour pillars and have a couple of ideas about them, more of which later..
I have decided that we should opt for 4" diameter. I know that some like a bigger reel but we have to settle on something and I feel that most would be happy to fish with the former. It also would make it easier for my little lathe to make!! (and I already have some materials in stock!)
MAKING the TFF AERIAL Part 1.
I'm going to start by making the backplate to a certain stage, then the drum and then make all the bits that make them go together. The experience gained when making the Coxon Tribute was invaluable, but there are still many areas for improvement.
The Backplate.
Some of the steps will be the same as the Coxon but I feel that you would like to see everything so have included all.
We started by having a look through the box of wood left-overs from different jobs in the past and found these pieces of well-seasoned mahogany strip wood..
As before, the first step was to cut it into lengths with a saw and then plane it parallel.
This was then marked out with my 30/60/90 degree try-square (Oxford mathematical drawing set!) and sawn up with a 'Junior' hacksaw into individual pieces; we need 24.
Next, the pieces were numbered and carefully sanded down on the 30 degree sides, using a sheet of fine sandpaper laid flat on a piece of glass and keeping one face of each wood piece against a square block to keep it true. We ended up with this..
As you see, I favour 'Araldite' normal setting, not rapid; it thus gives more time for the glue to penetrate into the wood-and more time to fix everything together and adjust if necessary.
Next, I put a piece of greaseproof paper on the glass to prevent the glue sticking to it, then glued the two sets together.
This will be left for 3 days now, to harden out fully before the next stage, which is to start making the backplate centre section. This will be a triple laminate back to improve strength.
With regards for now,
wm+
