Martin James Spanish Reed/spliced tip match rod.

Just built or restored a cane rod or need some advise then let us know in here.
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Rotrax
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Martin James Spanish Reed/spliced tip match rod.

Post by Rotrax »

I am about to start this restoration. It is, I believe, just pre war, three five foot sections.

I have a good start in that the rod is very sound, very straight and complete apart from most rings missing. And an almost perfect origonal labeled bag.
Not much staining under the rings on the built cane. The reed has been painted dark brown. The logo is good and intact.

A long time ago - sixteen years perhaps - I visited Edward Barder who took a look and sold me new period lined butt and tip rings plus a set of intermediates and enough orange and green silk to complete the job.

Two issues - the handle is large diameter wood with thin cork sheet in one inch strips wound and glued in place. Looks to be about 1/32nd inch thick.
Is this material available, if so, can anyone advise where from.

The other is the ferrules. All fit ok and are tight on the rod and within each other, but have been blued and now look bad.

I can probably deal with them on the rod, would you suggest this or removal and restoring their finish off the rod?

The fittings are brass, should polish up OK once cleaned of verdigris.

Apart from simple repair of my rods over the years I have never tackled a job of this magnitude.

I am torn between leaving as much as possible origonal - the intermediate whippings and those over the Reeds nodes are in VGC, if a bit faded, or going the whole hog and doing the lot.

Advice gratefully recieved, thanks in advance.

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OldAngler
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Re: Martin James Spanish Reed/spliced tip match rod.

Post by OldAngler »

Hello Rotrax,

I know very little about blueing ferrules or sheet cork supplies. I shall leave those to others.

As far as leaving the whippings on the nodes is concerned I think you will find that when you have re-whipped the rod rings the old whippings on the nodes will look rather sad. I would always prefer to strip off all the old whippings and re-whip the whole rod.

No doubt there will be other opinions!

Good luck, Old Angler

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Duckett
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Re: Martin James Spanish Reed/spliced tip match rod.

Post by Duckett »

I think I can help with 1/32nd cork sheet:

https://www.hattons.co.uk/36345/javis_s ... etail.aspx

It’s amazing how often my model railway alter ego is useful for tackle restoration. You’ll also find 1/16th cork sheet. Hatton’s are my preferred supplier for this type of thing but there are others!

Best of luck with the restoration.

Phil
From "... the wilds of the Wirral, whose wayward people both God and good men have quite given up on ...".

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Horgaszember
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Re: Martin James Spanish Reed/spliced tip match rod.

Post by Horgaszember »

Hi, I have just blued just about 30 vintage ferrules and sliding reel seats, and these turned out to be so nice that I dare to give you a hand :) So, if the ferrules are loose, You have to take them off and then of course you can reblue them off the rod (in this case an 1:5 dilution of Birchwood Casey's Brass Black is perfect to do a job in a small jar with a screw cap - where you can roll them for a minute or two). If the ferrules are well glued on the rod sections, then just do the refurb right on the rod. In this case use Brass Black in full concentration (max 0,5 ml is needed per ferrule) and apply it with its own applicator or with a Q-tip evenly moving around the whole lenght for about 10-20 sec. Of course prepering the ferrules is the most important part. First remove all previous varnish or lacquer with a 800-1200 grit sandpaper and then polish the whole surface with 0000 wirewool. When it is totally shiny and without any blemishes, than put your gloves on, degrease the whole ferrule by cleaning it with isopropyl-alcohol, wait a minute to dry and apply Brass Black (or a similar product for blueing brass/bronze/nickel silver). Last step is to immediately rinse the whole thing with destilled water when the desired color is reached and wipe off the remaining salts from the surface with a soft paper-tissue. The cane next to the ferrule should be masked off (with a few layers of regular masking tape) to protect these from scratching with sandpaper and from the chemicals used. To protect the blued parts either a protective wax (like 'Renaissance Wax') or acrylic spray lacquers can be used. Both are perfect, transparent and hard coatings, that protect from scrathing and oxidation.

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Rotrax
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Re: Martin James Spanish Reed/spliced tip match rod.

Post by Rotrax »

Thanks for that! Just what I needed.

In the vehicle world full restorations are becoming less popular with collectors. Origonality is now the 'buzzword' A mechanically perfect but otherwise unrestored motorcycle is now a really sought after thing.

As the rod is very sound I am inclined to re whip as little as possible in furtherance of this aim. Just the new rings, the reed/cane splice and one node whipping that was unwinding due to a scrape.

I know it will be a halfway house but I have decided to use it. Perhaps on the tidal Thames where it began its fishing life with my old motorcycling friend who gifted it to me.

Bottom section ready for rings and whipping, mid section being worked on, top section has had the top eye removed - the only one that was there!

I shall order some blue ASAP.

Thanks for the help, much appreciated.

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