I agree that you can ave a totally different hookbait to the free offerings and catch- i sometimes use floating fresh flake while feeding biscuits, but what I was trying to say is that if you do use the same bait as free offerings make sure it is not tainted.JAA wrote: ↑Sun Jul 30, 2017 12:09 pmI'm not convinced the hooker has to be the same as the free offerings. I prefer the reverse, which is to keep free offerings free and not be associated with being caught and tend to use hook-baits that are bigger/flavoured. So for example a bigger bit of bread or some pre-soaked mixers with pineapple and yellow colouring fished in threes. I can bung three of those on a size 4 about thirty yards without any controller.Julian wrote: ↑Sat Jul 29, 2017 11:14 pm it depends on various factors as to whether they will take the bait in open water - one of the most important being light.
In bright sunny conditions if the fish are rising to a bait and they are facing towards the sun as they approach then they will hardly ever take the bait - the line obviously becomes very visible to the fish.
However if they approach the bait in any other circumstances it seems to depend far more on a whole set of factors - lack of direct sunlight, overcast weather, low light , line specifics - ie colour, diameter, time of day( close to sunset often induces them to feed more), water colour and clarity.
Another factor that I believe is crucial is if the bait smells even slightly different to other free offerings- ie any taint from your hands and certainly oil/sweat from your fingers. Also after repeated casting the last few inches of line before the hook tends to no longer remain straight , and will also likely have a taint from your fingers/hands. This may sound picky but I'm absolutely convinced that this is a big factor.
While the sight of line can matter (larger carp can't even see the bait when they take it), I think the affect of the line on the behavior of the bait matters more and more often. When a carp sucks at the bait, a free offering will slip neatly down. Stiff mono stops this, flouro is even worse. I've overcome this with a short 1" braid link and there have been days hook-to-mono will barely get a decent take but 1" of 6lb silkworm get's the coconut every time.
In open water, I've noticed that often the 'break point' of line strength to takes is often 8lb-->6lb (un-stretched, so 0.23mm to 0.20mm). This might be sight related but I think myself it's more 'stiffness' related.
While I'm on my soapbox, almost no controller is worth bothering with on small waters. Carp soon learn to associated them with danger. The only one I've ever done really well with is a small bubble float, the sort with no metal bits in the eyes, and I usually break that out for half a pre-soaked mixer or pinch of flake on a size 14. Or a stick.
I also agree with you regarding controllers, I never use them.