Repainting a c815

[Thommo]

Good morning, ive got a c815 that im going to strip and repaint, ive got the dettol and wire wool ready for the soak and scrub but im looking for advice on repainting, could anyone recommend a primer and top coat that will do the job, im guessing it will need a primer and guessing again the black paint will be a satin but not sure of brands that will make a nice job of it, appreciate any advice thanks

[Beresford]

Very difficult to do well. You'll need to degrease the metal first before using an acid etch primer to ensure it bonds with the metal, then really you want to use a cellulose paint but they are very hard to find. Don't use rattle cans sold for car touch ups – they are aqueous based paints and will rub off a fishing reel in no time at all.

You could have it powder coated but it's expensive and will go brittle and come off in flakes over time. By far your best bet is to have it hard anodised. You will probably have to take the reel apart or undertake some very intricate masking.

Personally I wouldn't even try but instead would go for a spitfire finish.

[Jeremy Croxall]

Tim's comments above are quite right, it is very difficult to get a good durable finish using rattle cans and you have to be careful with a reel which has been repainted this way. However the durability of the paint can be improved by applying a couple of lacquer coats or varnish over the paint once fully cured. I have done a couple of reels this way and they still look ok although the paint has chipped off the leading edges of the reel foot but many vintage reels suffer this anyway. Good luck with your project

[Thommo]

Thanks for the comments, i take it then brushing the paint on is not really a good idea?

[Beresford]

If you brush paint the reel, it will look like a brush painted reel if you follow me. I guess you could use Smoothrite but I really wouldn't, honestly. Although the paint is self-levelling you really need to spray it to get a thin enough coat and to do that effectively you'll need to take your reel apart ie. down to the last piece. I've painted all sorts of metal things from tiny little pieces to great big bits. What you have to keep in mind is that your finish will only ever be as resilient as the bond between the first layer you put down and the metal, which is why I recommend an etch primer. You could get a little piece of steel plate and experiment. Depending on what you do you'll probably be able to scratch the paint off with your finger nail…

If you really want to you could get a rattle can of black enamel to spray over etch primer but I think you'll be wasting your time. I've been using AUTO EXTREME black satin code 1910 on pieces that aren't subjected to any handling. No idea if it would work on a reel but again you will have to entirely take the reel apart to apply it effectively and evenly. If you spray I have a 60:60 rule. You want less than 60% relative humidity and a temperature of at least 60 F but not more than about 77F. If it's too hot many paints will dry in the air as they are sprayed and you'll end up with a rough finish. Also if you spray anything, especially etch primer or enamel, you must wear a proper mask with multiple filters, 'cos you've only got one pair of lungs and these paints can and do burn if breathed in. Basically if you can smell what you are spraying, you are breathing it in.

As before, I recommend anodising or taking off all the paint and going for a bare metal finish.

If you want to protect the paint on a reel foot using plumbers' PFTE tape works.

[Thommo]

Thankyou for your detailed reply

[Wallys-Cast]

It depends on the reel in question of course but some popular reels are notorious for the paint coming away. Used Speedia's are rarely found without some paint issues as are the painted reels made by J W Young and sons.
This method will not be superior to the original but I have found that if you use good quality automotive spray cans, the finished result can be at least as hard wearing as the original paint was.

The reel can be dismantled as much as possible then remove as much of the old paint as you can. Mask off any of the areas you cant easily remove such as winding handles, name plates, centre hub and the reel foot, using masking tape.

The etch primer must go on a warm and degreased surface then use a satin black on top. Three, light, even coats will give the desired finish and I use a hot air gun held at a distance to help dry each coat. Leave the reel for a day or two before the final clean up and you will be surprised how hard it is to remove the bits of overspray. Remembering this paint is meant for things like alloy wheels, it does give a really serviceable finish.

There will be small areas on your Aerial where masking is almost impossible and things like line pillar and rivet heads can be cleaned up using cotton buds and cellulose thinners once the paint is fully hardened. It is a time consuming job but worth doing if you want to tidy an old reel up.
The outlay was about £12.00 but there was enough paint to do at least six reels.

Here's a couple of before and after pics of an Aerial I refinished a couple of years ago which had been brush painted sometime in the past.
I know it's not a perfect finish but it is presentable.

Oh and yes that's how much line was on it when I received it.

[Jeremy Croxall]

It depends on the reel in question of course but some popular reels are notorious for the paint coming away. Used Speedia's are rarely found without some paint issues as are the painted reels made by J W Young and sons.
This method will not be superior to the original but I have found that if you use good quality automotive spray cans, the finished result can be at least as hard wearing as the original paint was.

The reel can be dismantled as much as possible then remove as much of the old paint as you can. Mask off any of the areas you cant easily remove such as winding handles, name plates, centre hub and the reel foot, using masking tape.

The etch primer must go on a warm and degreased surface then use a satin black on top. Three, light, even coats will give the desired finish and I use a hot air gun held at a distance to help dry each coat. Leave the reel for a day or two before the final clean up and you will be surprised how hard it is to remove the bits of overspray. Remembering this paint is meant for things like alloy wheels, it does give a really serviceable finish.

There will be small areas on your Aerial where masking is almost impossible and things like line pillar and rivet heads can be cleaned up using cotton buds and cellulose thinners once the paint is fully hardened. It is a time consuming job but worth doing if you want to tidy an old reel up.
The outlay was about £12.00 but there was enough paint to do at least six reels.

Here's a couple of before and after pics of an Aerial I refinished a couple of years ago which had been brush painted sometime in the past.
I know it's not a perfect finish but it is presentable.

Oh and yes that's how much line was on it when I received it.

That looks fabulous Wal, a really nice job sir

[JW1]

I have been experimenting with Hammerite spray paint, if put on thickly it give a very smooth finish. I am leaving it for a couple of months before using to allow the paint time to fully harden as I beleive this is they key to a durable paint finish. Hopefully the new season will see it tested out.

[Beresford]

Some lovely results.

You could use liquid mask for parts like the riveted ends of the line pilers. Wal is the paint you are using sold specifically for wheels?

For masking intricate areas I can recommend Tamiya Tape available on-line. It comes in different widths – I think I use 4mm – it's specifically designed for masking small areas and is a bit more flexible than DIY masking tape. It should be easier to mask the spokes and central hub using this tape.