The Traditional Fisherman's Forum

Like it Shaun, bloody good idea,I'll be trying that, thanks (drawing was perfectly clear btw)

Shaun Harrison wrote:Hi Shaun ,

Any chance of a pics of your preferred rig or even a sketch, would just be interested to see and visualise the mechanics of your mentioned rig/ tactics

Stuart

I'm no artist

The shot link is drawn long and is how I use it in semi slack water, if in a decent flow this is shortened right down. looks far more complicated than it is due to all the scribbled writing but reasons for each item.

Basically it is a straight forward loop to loop attachment as most would do whilst float fishing but the tag end left in place on the heavier loop.

I do twist the loops these days rather than leaving them open. Simple, effective, never tangles and I'm in total control how much line I leave behind on a snag. Snags would be far smaller if everyone else left less line on them. I carry a few hook lengths with loops so on the bank on a re-tackle it's a simple loop in the end of the main line, pinch a shot on and then loop to loop a fresh hook link. Seconds to do.[/quote]

Not reproduced on tinypic very clearly. Photobucket wont let me use them now unless I pay them what I consider too much to use their facility.

Top bubble says...
Figure of 8 twisted loops to create a mini boom then attached loop to loop.

Left lower bubble
Tag end left for shot

Middle bubble
Shot with Newplast wrap to infinitely adjust the weight and to negate gravel rattle

End Bubble
Finer diameter hook link ensures any breakage will be here or here.[/quote]


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Nice one Shaun, thank you for sketch , I can clearly see n read the bubbles as I'm on large Apple iPad and can enlarge easily,

Seems simple enough and I'll definitely try the rig out when the rivers open back up

I always take great interest in all different rigs etc and if I can find simple and effective improvements then obviously so much the better

Stuart

Just seen your post Shaun on marks thread and this all clearly makes sence, thank you for your time and info,

Respect



Stuart

Olly wrote:I can do the same by by changing the weight on the swivel clip - also to a lead - feeder or whatever. I never use a quiver tip rod for float fishing.

I have always used the silicone for wagglers - you can alter the depth much easier with the 'slipperyness' of silicone rubber! It is of a similar size to feeding through a drilled non-lead substitute, coffin, barrel or bullet.

Ledger stops as per Drennan are a nightmare as is anything that crushes the line. I use them as a 'line break' tool when fishing a paternoster for pike. They are also useful as a holder of a paste/cheese bait wrapped around it on a hair.

The Drennan ' Gripper' float stops have been recommended but I am yet to use them.

Finally I have lost fish due to line breakage - down to early lead shot substitute - some of which were absolute rubbish!

You learn a lot from match fishing, having a tackle shop, specimen hunting, etc!

I never use a quiver tip rod and a float rod.i use a Lucky Strike for both.

Thames Mudlarker wrote:Just seen your post Shaun on marks thread and this all clearly makes sence, thank you for your time and info,

Respect



Stuart

The only difference to the original post on Mark's is that now I prefer to use twisted loops, looped to loop. Same rig just a slightly stiffer boom when twisted first.

Thames Mudlarker wrote:Just seen your post Shaun on marks thread and this all clearly makes sence, thank you for your time and info,

Respect



Stuart

The only difference to the original post on Mark's is that now I prefer to use twisted loops, looped to loop. Same rig just a slightly stiffer boom when twisted first.

Shaun Harrison wrote:

Thames Mudlarker wrote:Just seen your post Shaun on marks thread and this all clearly makes sence, thank you for your time and info,

Respect



Stuart

The only difference to the original post on Mark's is that now I prefer to use twisted loops, looped to loop. Same rig just a slightly stiffer boom when twisted first.

Cheers Shaun, thank you for yer advice,

Stuart

Sorry I'm a little late getting to this thread, but it does raise some interesting questions. My preferred legering technique has always been the link leger. I tie some low bs line to a swivel and attach either a few swan shot or an Arlesey bomb about 4 inches from the swivel. For general fishing, I thread my main line through the swivel, tie on the hook, press on a BB shot about a foot from the hook and cast out very gently. If there are no tangles, a biting fish will feel resistance only from the weight of the BB shot, the drag on the line, and whatever force is needed to move my bite indicator (swingtip, rod top, silver paper, Fairy Liquid bottle top, etc.). This method served me very well for years in rivers and lakes, until I started fishing for carp in a local river. After losing a couple due to line breaks near tree roots, I decided to get rid of the BB shot. Instead, I threaded an inch of bicycle valve rubber onto the line before attaching the hook, and held it in place by inserting an inch cut off a wooden toothpick inside it. No crimping of the line, so the only weak spot is the hook or the knot at the hook. Simplify your tackle, as Chris Yates would say! I haven't lost a carp since.

Now for my real question, which is a follow-up to Olly's earlier post. In still waters, I would always want the least resistance possible, and so the lightest stop shot and bite indicator for the conditions. However, in rivers the fish may move constantly in undulating currents and are used to lunging at edibles that drift into view. If mouthing the bait lifts a swan shot or two, is the force required too small to be detectable by the fish, is it detectable but ignored by the fish and still results in a bite, or is it detectable with the resistance causing an even stronger sustained bite (from a hungry fish)? To put it another way, have you ever missed bites and found chewed maggots when using a couple of swan shot, but found you hit the bites if you go down to one swan shot, or hit even bigger bites if you go up to three?

G B

I also use a drilled bullet but am running low on them now so may have to start using swan shotp

I use the same method as the late great Terry Lampard. A link ledger of mono using either a small ring or swivel - this is held up the mainline by two drennan grippa stops which slide very easily but never slip in my experience. If I get caught in a snag I usually find that I lose the shot on the link rather than snapping the mainline.