The Traditional Fisherman's Forum

The RW landing net head I've acquired needs a little bit of work to finish it off.

Would you countersink the screw heads, and is this easily achieved by using a hand drill ? Although the nut heads look oversized i may replace them.

Secondly the spreader block on some models has two holes was this for decoration or for some practical use? What was the material Richard used on his if known.

Thanks in advance for anyone that replies.

My opinion is use two stainless steel cap head screws as brass will corrode with a aluminium block.Terry

I agree with Terry.
If you know what thread is involved, I might have some in my stash.

Leigh wrote: ↑Fri Nov 18, 2022 10:30 am The RW landing net head I've acquired needs a little bit of work to finish it off.

Would you countersink the screw heads, and is this easily achieved by using a hand drill ? Although the nut heads look oversized i may replace them.

Secondly the spreader block on some models has two holes was this for decoration or for some practical use? What was the material Richard used on his if known.

Thanks in advance for anyone that replies.

Landing Net .jpg

Yes, you can c/sink the screw heads flush with a hand drill if you want, using a countersink bit. Don't try and wind too fast; wind slowly keeping a good, vertical pressure on with a little bit of lubricant; use soapy water in the absence of anything else-and frequently clear the swarf as you go, since it will build up in the fluting of the bit and clog it, preventing it cutting.

It is thought that Richard Walker used both Cheese headed and round headed brass screws on his, as did JIm Bruce on the B.James nets, with the screw heads on opposite sides, although Walker's drawing doesn't show it and the photo appears to suggest that the screw heads might be counterbored in flush. (Edit:- There isn't any apparent reason for putting screw heads in on opposite sides other than ease of home manufacture).

The two holes in the spreader block are not for lightening as the actual weight saving would be neglidgable, but for ease of net assembly. The idea was that you roughly screw up the long bolt by hand then stand the net vertically on it's end, cane downward of course-and by putting the tips of two fingers into the holes, you can easily pull down and thus spread the net to the limit, then continue doing up the screw as far as it will go.

You take the net apart after fishing in similar fashion by again standing the net on its end and by putting on downward pressure with the fingers, it is a lot easier to undo the screw.

I have a feeling that RSW used elm as the spreader block in his original net (edit:-for ease of cutting and good water tolerance), but oak was probably used in later ones. The first ones were cut from a solid block-as my own nets-but you see all manner of materials used later by other makers, solid aluminium and even a 'sandwich' of wood or Tufnol with aluminium plates screwed on each side.

Get in touch, should you require any screws. if your net was made recently, it probably has metric threads.

Hope this is of some help..

wm+

Here is the spreader block on my Walker net. There was also an ash block again with two holes drilled. Leszek has identified the reasoning behind this. However I would add that losing additional weight anywhere possible is a good thing. The net and handle combined (built cane pole) are fairly heavy. My net is built exactly to Walkers original diagrams, with a couple of mods along the way.
Look forward to seeing full pictures of yours.

I’ve looked on the net and cap head stainless steel screws would look very neat and no need to countersink the block.Terry

Spelling error the screw is a button head not a cap head .sorry Terry

Some pictures which may be of use:-

Richard Walker's original drawing and a photo of his own net.







These are the first blocks that I made from hardwood:-







wm+

Some useful reference material, thank you.

That's exceptional workmanship there Watermole