An Early Mitchell is Reborn

[Rockape]

Hi all,

I just wanted to show the final result of what has been a bit of a long wait for me for hard to obtain parts, and a daunting task, but here it is (at last!), all period correct and also pictured posing with a factory stock original. All body parts were re-finished.

The body and rotor assembly for this reel came from a mk2 / second version which came with a lot of spare parts, some original to the original reel, but no side plate; the only let down was a broken foot repair, which was so beautifully done, I felt it deserved a second chance.

The donor side plate, gears and handle came from a reel hiding in a job lot of Mitchell 300's. The rotor was from a later full bail reel, and the body, though original to the side plate, had it's foot shortened (sadly, I'm finding a few of these half bail reels with modified feet, but if they are being used as they were originally intended on a modern rod, then this is to be expected I suppose?).

So, body and rotor from one mk2 and the side plate, handle and internals from another of the same period.

[Wallys-Cast]

Absolutely gorgeous looking reels. Really good restorations, well done.

Wal.

[Keston]

Looks great, lovely work .

[Fredline]

Two beauties.

[Rockape]

Thanks everyone for your kind comments.

It has been a bit of a labour of love, and not without it's headaches.
I was lucky enough to have the kind help (advice) from a guy in the States named Christian, who is (I think?) a professional restorer of these reels, and has tackled this version before (not sure if he has posted here in the past, but he is on the US based FT and the MRM forums); his work is top notch.

He helped me primarily with the dissassembly and reassembly of the round AR switch, the task of which was causing me some real concern, but I got there in the end.

Just to clear any confusion I may have caused from my parts photos; both pictures feature the same parts, but the transfer gear was flipped over to show the brass insert on the opposite side (only one of the reels is restored, the other is stock, untouched).

Thanks again.

[Liphook]

Fine work indeed Rockape! Did you spray /bake that external paintwork? I'd be interested to know your material choices and techniques used, provided of course that's not giving your restoration secrets away

[Rockape]

Fine work indeed Rockape! Did you spray /bake that external paintwork? I'd be interested to know your material choices and techniques used, provided of course that's not giving your restoration secrets away

Of course Liphook, no problem.

First of all, all my (few so far) restorations are an unknown from a durability and longevity point of view; hopefully they will hold up, but only time will tell?

They say preparation is everything (and it is!), so I spend some considerable time getting every speck of the original finish off the metalwork, which is mainly with 600 grit wet and dry and a LOT of elbow grease followed by 1500 to 2000 grit paper.
As you probably know Mitchell paint is pretty tough stuff, impervious to paint strippers and extreme heat, so it is always a painful job!.

Once I have the metalwork prepared, I clean thoroughly with isopropyl alcohol, and using rubber gloves, mask off and mount the part for clear access to all areas (I use a block of hard foam packing with cotton buds to hold the body; a large zip tie and cotton buds to support around it, through the rotor shaft hole. The side plate is mounted on a wooden block (as described later).

I then apply a couple of coats of Upol Acid 8 etch primer from Halfords, then clear out the paint in the Mitchell script using a scribe from a watchmakers screwdriver set (I do this a couple of hours after spraying, while it is still slightly soft to prevent it from chipping around the grooves. Etch primer will not adhere to paint, so that is why my metalwork is always completely old-paint free before spraying.

The next stage after a few hours drying time is the Halfords red primer sealer coat (I try to keep this as thin a coat as possible), then etch out the script again (scary stuff!).

Sand lightly with 2000 grit wet and dry for a smooth surface for the final top coat (avoid sanding any edges, unless you really have to)

The Halfords rattle can paint was recommended to me by a professional sprayer, but ultimately, an air brush job would get you a supremely good result, though I'm not sure about putting acid etch through an air brush?

After 24hrs I apply the top coat (three or four light coats, but I spray to a 'wet' coat for best results).

For this I use VHT high temp black enamel, satin finish engine paint from Frost auto restorations, which has to be baked for best results, but I have elected to let it harden over time; it has proved to be quite tough even after a week or so (fewer coats on the script, for better paint clearance). It dries quite quickly, and I wait 15 minutes between coats.

Once dry (I allow around 3 hours before etching the script, but I cant tell you if this is best or not; it is always a concern that if the paint is too hard, it will chip outside of the groove?My worries may be unfounded, however (I'm relatively new to this)? I would suggest practicing on a spare sideplate to get the best time frame; sadly I have not yet done this.
I can tell you that clearing out the script paint too early, will make it stick to the scribe and create gooey mess....not good!

So...this is where the anxiety starts to grip you as you lower the scribe to the script for the last time, and if you have shakey hands like me, it is a real problem!
I mount the side plate on a wooden block with holes for the gear pillars and AR dog pillar, and use a bit of packing to lift it slightly from the block.
I use the same wooden block and an inspection lamp for etching out the paint from the script. In theory, the lack of etch primer in the groove, should allow the paint to lift out nicely. Don't rush this! And if the scribe stops, don't be tempted to push a little harder; come in from the other side of the blockage. It is so easy to mess this up in the final straight.

Assuming all went well, wait a few days and polish lightly with Carnuba wax, which is kinder than T-cut, but still very effective; try not to cut through to the primer (a few wipes and inspect)..

That's about it really, a very amature perspective, of which I am very open to criticism and schooling (anything to help to achieve a great result).

To add: in my photos you will see the cotton bud ends sticking up from the reel body; These are screwed in to the holes, and continue through the foam and are taped off at the back where they emerge. I now cut these cotton ends off, as they get in the way, and can cause problems.

Some pics show the sideplates before paint clearing, but I always clear the script after each process.

[Liphook]

Wow! Thank you Rockape for such a superb and thorough response - absolutely top drawer sir!

I've a number of reels that would benefit from a refinish, including a blue Mitchell Match that has bubbled quite badly. If I get close to your results I'll be very happy!

[Wanderer]

Very impressive indeed Rockape.
As a matter of interest, what is the blue grease that you have used ?

[Rockape]

Very impressive indeed Rockape.
As a matter of interest, what is the blue grease that you have used ?

Thank you.

Well, when I started refurbing fishing reels, I had been looking at getting the blue Penn reel grease, as it always gets rave reviews, but I needed a 1lb tub of the stuff, and it was around £40..ish a tub, and then I spotted a guy on YT servicing a Mitchell 300, and he had a tub of ACF50 corrosion block grease (also blue).
Now this ACF50 grease (not the aerosol stuff) was originally formulated for use on Lear Jets, and is used extensively in the aviation field, but it soon gained favour with the motorcycle industry, and that is where you mainly see reference to it now.

I have wondered many times if this is not exactly the same stuff that Penn sells, except that ACF50 is a LOT cheaper.

It's excellent grease and not too thick, but beware of using too much on the axle and main gearshaft, because it can slow the reel down a bit (hydraulic lock, someone said it was..??).
I sometimes add a bit of Lucas reel oil to these parts. (another great product).