Aspindales how many bits make a rod?

[Nobby]

Nice work....that's another one saved from the skip. Well done.

Weyfarer, those 'wrappers' are extraordinary!
I can't even begin to fathom how any of them work, and considering they are all designed to do the same job, I'm amazed how different some of them are to one another.

[MGs]

Looking good :thumb:

[Kenkroy]

Oh dear just needed to tweak it a little more.

anyone have any ideas where I can get a Suredale top section?
And after all the effort to glue it all back together turned out so well.A moments lack of concentration and up it goes.
Ken

[The Sweetcorn Kid]

Sorry to see that Ken, hope you manage to find another section pal.

[J.T]

Bad luck Ken , hope you find another one mate.

[Haydn Clarke]

As I'm sure you don't want to re-live the event I'm not even gonna ask how it happened. Save to say, I think your only port of call now is Chapmans. It won't be cheap but beings that emotionally you're into it deep already, and given that it's an Asper it's surely worth it, Ken.

[Nobby]

OK. That's bad.

I wondered if you had been using your rack to heat the cane?

You just wouldn't have the chance to get it away from the heat quick enough as it heated up.

You need to move the cane in and out of the hot zone above the flame in a figure of eight pattern that stops it overheating locally. Never, ever allow the cane to remain static. Even just moving it from side to side in the hot zone is no good, it means the ends of each traverse get heated twice!


Practice on a quill until you can straighten one without ruining it.



Sorry if this is the last thing you wanted to hear right now, but I thought I should mention it so it doesn't happen again.


Suredale tips are very slim, the last part is smaller than anything else I've seen outside of a fly rod.

I fear a trip to Chapman's is indeed in order, unless you can find another, but that thin tip means they are a bit thin on the ground at full length.

[Vole]

Ouch! What a pity, but these projects do so often seem to come with built-in calamities-in-waiting.
I've done worse, but not on such a nice rod; I feel your pain.
Would it be possible to scarf or splice join it, then brace it up with the fine carbon sheet used for pole joint repairs? Not pukka but serviceable as a "user" ...

" Even just moving it from side to side in the hot zone is no good, it means the ends of each traverse get heated twice!"
How I wish someone had pointed that out to me when I was trying to pull glass pipettes.... good tip!

Would it be possible to make a sort of double-tapered heater by wrapping a bit of heater element wire round a bit of ceramic tube - a third of a "pipe-clay triangle", for instance - with wraps that start widely spaced, get closer towards the middle, then spread out again at the other end?
And would it be worth the bother for the one-or-two-rods-a-year type?

I'll maybe stick to convincing myself that "set" = "character"; far less can go wrong.

[SeanM]

It will be a straight taper Ken. PM me the accross the flats dimensions and I'll see if I have anything that will do.

Like a few on here I use a heat gun on low setting (hair dryers don't get quite hot enough). I have been considering making a heat tube using some piping a heat gun and an old hoover flexible tube, but like Vole I wonder if it's worth it for the few rods a year that I do.

One think to remember as well is that the urea formaldehyde glues used on cane from the 50s on aren't particularly heat stable. Letting the cane get much hotter than 60C (the temperature of a central heating radiator) is asking for delamination. I often smile to myself when I see someone claiming that they have re-tempered a cane rod. I'd never buy it though!

[Nobby]

I think I might go a little higher than 60 Deg C, Sean, but not by much.......I'm on the verge of saying "Ow" which might be as high as 68, the temperature to mash a high maltose Old Ale at, but I can just take it as the cane cools so quickly.

It's more painful with a middle section as it holds more heat and cools slower.


I watched John Chapman work on a rod section for me yesterday...he was using a whole ring of gas, such as one might have warmed tar for a roofing job on.
I think my eyebrows hot the ceiling as he wafted my cane towrads it, but actually he was well over a foot above the flames.


John insists you want a flame that makes water as it burns, though I know plenty of you get good results with a hot air gun....Heck, Redfin has built whole rods from the culm with one!


There's no gas in my village, but you might consider a GaZ stove, an oil lamp or a paraffin burner, John says.


So far, I've got away with a 4cm night light candle myself.


I too, have a couple of tip sections, so perhaps we can help out with a replacement.