I have found the following in my records that may be useful to members. These are direct measurements made by a rod builder from a rod I used to own.
Bob
WHOLE CANE B. JAMES AVOCET TAPERS
BUTT SECTION - 45" WHOLE CANE
MIDDLE SECTION -45" SPLIT CANE TO THE FOLLOWING TAPERS
DISTANCE ACROSS HEX
0" 0.44
6" 0.425
12" 0.41
18" 0.385
24" 0.367
30" 0.34
36" 0.325
42" 0.315
45" FERRULE
TOP SECTION - 45" SPLIT CANE TO THE FOLLOWING TAPERS
DISTANCE ACROSS HEX
0" 0.265
6" 0.25
12" 0.225
18" 0.215
24" 0.2
30" 0.172
36" 0.15
42" 0.133
45" 0.125 TIP RING
Whole cane butt Avocet tapers
- Bob Brookes
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Whole cane butt Avocet tapers
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Re: Whole cane butt Avocet tapers
Thanks for that Bob. :thumb:
Mark (Administrator)
The most precious places in the English landscape are those secretive corners,
where you find only elder trees, nettles and dreams. (BB - Denys Watkins-Pitchford).
The most precious places in the English landscape are those secretive corners,
where you find only elder trees, nettles and dreams. (BB - Denys Watkins-Pitchford).
Re: Whole cane butt Avocet tapers
Bob,
Does "across the hex" mean from the apex of one angle to the opposite one, rather than across the flats.
If so, I've never heard of this method.
Mike
Does "across the hex" mean from the apex of one angle to the opposite one, rather than across the flats.
If so, I've never heard of this method.
Mike
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Re: Whole cane butt Avocet tapers
I think there are three ways of measuring a rod...
Across the flats, using a vernier gauge.
Across the 'points', using a vernier gauge.
Across a single segment, using a vernier gauge or a ruler.
Personally, I think only the first way is sensible, with the others the measurements become meaningless if the builder has rounded the enamel at all.
Eack way will work, but making comparisons between different rods is confusing and I prefer to
take the measurements and then record the decrease between each measurement as a separate figure, which I find easier to understand.
So if a rod has no compound taper, the decrease figure stays constant. The moment there is a change in taper that figure changes too and can be easily understood. I did it first this way with a Wizard and found a very small change in taper on the tip section that surprised me as it was pretty slight, but I presume it was deliberate.
Milwards are the devil to measure though, as they sometimes put two taper changes within three inches of one another on their Twin Taper Tips and I usually measure every four inches!. For that reason I always place a steel rule against the rod to be sure I don't miss anything, though it's all a bit hit and miss if the rod has rings whipped on to it, but at least you can see something if you do it with a white surface below.
Across the flats, using a vernier gauge.
Across the 'points', using a vernier gauge.
Across a single segment, using a vernier gauge or a ruler.
Personally, I think only the first way is sensible, with the others the measurements become meaningless if the builder has rounded the enamel at all.
Eack way will work, but making comparisons between different rods is confusing and I prefer to
take the measurements and then record the decrease between each measurement as a separate figure, which I find easier to understand.
So if a rod has no compound taper, the decrease figure stays constant. The moment there is a change in taper that figure changes too and can be easily understood. I did it first this way with a Wizard and found a very small change in taper on the tip section that surprised me as it was pretty slight, but I presume it was deliberate.
Milwards are the devil to measure though, as they sometimes put two taper changes within three inches of one another on their Twin Taper Tips and I usually measure every four inches!. For that reason I always place a steel rule against the rod to be sure I don't miss anything, though it's all a bit hit and miss if the rod has rings whipped on to it, but at least you can see something if you do it with a white surface below.