Writing on floats

[Jeremy.Airey]

Hi Chaps

I make a lot of floats and other than nice clean black bands on the tips and neat whippings nothing enhances a float more than a signature and the shotting capacity written on it. While I am improving on the whipping and banding front my calligraphy leaves a bit to be desired.
The only way so far I've found of doing it without too much smudging and 'bleeding' of the ink is to use a sharpie after sealing the float and when dry coating with flytyers UV acrylic resin which doesn't react with the ink. You can then finish with what you want.
Only thing is that even the thinnest sharpie isn't really thin enough to give an 'Andrew Field' quality job .
If it isn't a trade secret can somebody tell me how it is done ?
I know it doesn't make the floats fish any better but I like to try to do a good job.
thanks
Jeremy

[Steq]

Sorry this isn't an answer to your post but i am also in need of a solution the same problem, I am currently using a very very fine brush, however i feel it doesn't have the strength to write neatly

[Santiago]

2013-05-29 20.21.52-1.jpg

I use a fine Staedtler permanent marker pen, but you might want something finer. Do you have any pics to compare?

[Sussex Micky]

I use a faber castell pitt artist pen..it has indian ink and waterproof,..drying time is fast..leave a very sharp signature..you can buy it in several sizes

[Nobby]

You can buy marker pens down to 0.1mm from Staedler, or maybe just good old Indian Ink and a cheap 'dipping' pen. I practice and I practice but I still can't write as well as I could 45 years ago, though!

[George387]

These are good and wont break the bank, they are fade resistant and waterproof once dry, a pack of 5 covers from 0.1, 0.2, 0.3, 0.5 & 0.8

[Jeremy.Airey]

Thanks Chaps

To ask the obvious question do you the writing before after or during finishing ?
I hope that doesn't sound as silly as it might as if after durability may be an issue and if during you have to be careful what you put over the top of the ink or it gets very messy - been there and bought the tee shirt as I said earlier the best i've done so far is uv curing resin over sharpie but even had smudging issues with that and UV resin doesn't always cure 'untacky' however much you zap it which means another coat of Sally Hanson or equivelent product.
I do love 'proper' floats whether a plain peacock lift float or an intricate crow quill zoomer though so all the trouble is worth it in the end.

regards
Jeremy

[Santiago]

I use a water based varnish called Polyvine Heavy Duty floor varnish and it dries and is recoatable in about 20 minutes and is as clear as glass. After 6 coats (brushed on, have yet to try dipping) I do the writing and mark the weight capacity, then I follow with 2-3 more coats of varnish. Solvent based varnishes have a habit of smearing pen marks by re-dissolving the ink, but one does not see this with water based varnishes. Others use Morrells Floor varnish which is also water based. Both these varnishes being heavy duty are ideal for floats (no solvent, no smell, no smudgeing).